Day 7 – Good-bye and Thank You Virginia – Hello Kentucky

A hearty goodbye to Virginia and all the people I met along the way.

  • To Ron and Joan Short for the guidance and hospitality.
  • To Pam Eddy for being my trail angel and saving me from the storage unit.
  • To all the people who pulled over in VA to give me words of encouragement and talk for a moment.  I loved hearing all the stories of local and family history you had to share.
  • To the Hobbs’ for offering me such unique accommodations.
  • To Billy Heck and Scott Bowen at Wilderness Road State Park and Martin Station.
  •  To Marcus for being our Indian guide.
  • To Mona, Deidre and Kelsey for walking with us for a piece of this journey.
  • To Isaac Kramer and his two boys .
  • To the folks at Bell County Historical Society, Tim Cornett, and the great luncheon and reception we had there.
  • And a special thank you to the hundreds of drivers who steered just a little bit left as I managed the narrow shoulders

God bless you Old Dominion, looking forward to seeing you again!

For the remainder of the trip Givan and I will have some blacktops but there will be more back roads and overland experiences.  More along the lines of the hiking we love and sticking directly to the actually route of Boone Trace.

We have quite a few miles to put under foot to make our campsite tonight.  We probably won’t get there until after dark.

Walk on,

Curtis

 

 

 

Day Five – Midday Check In

1:24 p.m.
Today’s only scenery is blacktop and guardrail. The fog covers the mountains to my right and the rain keeps my head down. Backpacking is not the best way to enjoy a hwy.
Walk on,
Curtis

Wilderness Road - Hwy. 58 Between Jonesville and Rose Hill, VA Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

Wilderness Road – Hwy. 58
Between Jonesville and Rose Hill, VA
Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

Day two comes to a close with an unexpected treat

1:07 p.m.

Here we are at Moccasin Gap and Clinch River that runs through it. When I stood on the bank of the river in October it was low and docile.  Today it’s well beyond it’s banks.

Walk on,
Curtis

Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

 

7:47 p.m.

What an unexpected treat

I had said I wouldn’t sleep under roofs, but I never imagined this roof would be offered to me. Tonight I’ll be sleeping inside the Blockhouse at Natural Tunnel State Park. The Daniel Boone Wilderness Trail Association built and maintains it, here in the park, to educate visitors. On occasion, they allow re-enactors to bunk here. I am very grateful to Joan Boyd Short for her offer to sleep here and get a touch closer to the experiences of Grandpa Joshua.

Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

Photo Credit: Curtis Penix

As for the day I just finished, it was a grueling 11 miles (not positive on mileage) which seemed to be up hill most of the day. Seems like Virginia is being a little selfish with their mountains. Why not let Iowa or Nebraska have a few?

Got several honks from passers-by with a, “Hey dude, I saw you in the paper. Rock on bro.” Followed by a logging truck dousing me with road spray. A good analogy for life I guess. Ya start thinking you’re on fire and someone will be there to put you out.

Well tonight I’ll fall asleep with the sweet smells of hand hewn lumber and hardwood smoke. The crackle of the fire blends well with the sound of rain high above me on the roof. Good night Grandpa.

Walk on,
Curtis

Checking In – Day 2 Along Moccasin Creek

March 11th

10:57 a.m.

Yesterday’s constant drone of traffic is gone and today i have been accompanied by the sounds of little Moccasin Creek which flows parallel to the road I’m on. That road being Daniel Boone Rd. I’m walking the valley on the north side of Clinch Mtn. which has scattered country homes and large tracts of woods. I’ll be by the town of Duffield later and I think I’ll stop in at Natural Tunnel State Park.

Walk on,
curtis

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The Devil’s Race Path

Day two begins
Began walking at 8:30 a.m.

 

Thugs and hooligans have always been a part of the historical landscape.

As the push into Kentucky continued, pioneers became targets for thieves who would rather steal than forge their own way in life. A prime spot to do so was along Purchase Ridge and the steep road that slowed heavily laden wagons.  Today this road is US 23 which enters Duffield, Va., from the southeast.

Photo Credit: waynerd via Compfight cc

Photo Credit: waynerd via Compfight cc

In an attempt to outrun the bandits, pioneers would race their wagons at top speed up this incline. It became known as, and is still called today, “The Devil’s Race Path”. With the roadside bandits gone, making their living as cybercriminals, the area seems to continue the theme of “flying” up the hill with side road names like Dove Dr., Swan Dr, and Partridge Dr.

There was an alternate path, however, that could be taken which was not as steep but a tad longer. Today it is the Natural Tunnel Parkway. I imagine that Joshua, was a hardened, adventurous man and strolled up Purchase Ridge fearing neither bandits nor the devil.

Day one comes to a close

Had a good first day. A tad over 15 miles but needed to get to a good camping spot. Two lovely ladies tracked me down (for those who know me, your probably thinking that happens all the time, but honestly it doesnt). It was Joan, the president of the Daniel Boone Wilderness Trail Assoc., and Megan, a ranger from the Natural Tunnel State Park. They gave me some good pointers to avoid all the traffic and I’m glad they did. They also scouted ahead and found this spot for me, next to the Hob Nob Restaurant.

Well, time for some Boone Hoosh and sleep. You cyber hikers get some sleep to. It’s another big day tomorrow!
Walk on,
curtis

Checking In – Day 1

The rain, that was so prominently reported as coming, has not. Clouds but nary a drop. I have been in the constant company of traffic which makes it hard to hear the spring time noises that TN and VA are producing. A distant crow or blue jay, spring peepers, trickles of the many streams and the shuffling of my feet. And of course the hum of tires and whooshing of semi’s.
Although the sun has not been out it is unseasonably warm for a Michigan boy.
Rest time over. Walking.

Walk on,
Curtis (2:25 p.m.)

Photos from this morning’s send off.

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Netherland Inn ~ Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Netherland Inn ~ Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Photo Credit : Amber Penix

Photo Credit : Amber Penix

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Boone Cabin ~ Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Boone Cabin ~ Photo Credit: Amber Penix

Anderson Blockhouse

If Kentucky is to the west, why did I start out by traveling east? Boone needed more men to cut the road than what he gathered at Long Island of the Holston and he would find them at Anderson Blockhouse.

THIS IS A REPRODUCTION OF THE ANDERSON BLOCKHOUSE LOCATED AT NATURAL TUNNEL STATE PARK - Photo Credit Kimberly Penix

THIS IS A REPRODUCTION OF THE ANDERSON BLOCKHOUSE LOCATED AT NATURAL TUNNEL STATE PARK – Photo Credit Kimberly Penix

A blockhouse is a small, 2 story fortification where the second floor is larger and protrudes out from the first floor. It was built this way so the pioneers inside could fire their weapons straight down at attackers who approached the walls of the building.

Many blockhouses were built along the roads into the wilderness to serve as resting points for the travelers,and Anderson’s Blockhouse was the most well known. It was so famous that many simply referred to it as “The Blockhouse”. It was the last stopping point for pioneers before leaving civilization behind and entering the true wilderness. Roads from all points, north, east and south, converged to make this location a sort of “central station”. Small groups would wait there until others arrived, forming larger groups, which could travel in greater safety.

The Anderson family would supply, entertain and protect the travelers as best they could but being on the edge of the untamed west was fraught with danger. More than a few times, the Anderson’s had to retreat east to safer fortresses to avoid attacking Indians. But they always returned to the blockhouse. No doubt Joshua passed by the blockhouse, as a marching soldier or adventuresome pioneer, on his way to Fort Boonesborough.  So that’s where I’m headed.

The blockhouse, which was made of heavy timbers, is long gone, Unnecessary in a more peaceful time and decayed as most lumber is from two and a half centuries past. The above replica can be seen at Natural Tunnel State Park. Today, on the spot just east of Wadlow Gap Rd. on E. Carter’s Valley Rd. is a simple monument as a reminder of what it took to survive a life we no longer have to live.

Long Island of the Holston

I am in Kingsport, Tennessee. Better known in 1775 as Long Island of the Holston. It was a sacred counsel and treaty location for the Native Americans in this area and served as a trading post. It is possible the state got its name from the Yuchi Indian word “Tana-see” which means “meeting place” and may have referred to this island.

In those days, however, this area was under the North Carolina Colony rule and the rule of the English Crown. Remember the Revolutionary War was in its infancy and Americans were still subjects of England.

Daniel Boone, Joshua Penix, and most of the pioneers were first generation Americans. They were the first to be born on American soil and they were feeling distant from the rulers over the Atlantic. A desire to move west, and make a life on their own terms, was building in their hearts.

This growing feeling of independence is what Richard Henderson was banking on to make his fortune selling plots in the “promised land” over the Alleghenies. But how would they get the pioneers past the foreboding wall of rock that ran hundreds of miles and blocked this bluegrass paradise? That’s precisely why Boone was the man for the job. He was one of just a few white men who knew the way and was already known far and wide for his navigation and woodsman skills.

I can’t find a primary source to tell me what day Boone left Long Island of the Holston. We know the purchase was signed on March 17th by the Indian Chiefs in Sycamore Sholes. But it is suggested Boone left prior to the signing, confident the deal was as good as done. A few internet sources (nps.gov and foresthistory.org) as well as the December 1985 issue of National Geographic give the date of March 10th as the day Boone began blazing the trail.

Photo Credit: dmott9 via Compfight cc

Photo Credit: dmott9 via Compfight cc

Also, we don’t know the exact location from which Boone left. Long Island is 4 miles long and averages 1/2 mile wide. Today most of the island is privately owned industrial property. Therefore, I will be starting my trek tomorrow, across the river from the north end of the island, at the Netherland Inn, which is a museum of local history. On its grounds is a cabin, relocated from Duffield, Va., that was owned and occupied by Boone and his family in the 1770’s. This is the beginning of the auto route laid out by the Daniel Boone Wilderness Trail Assoc.

If you’re gonna follow, you’re gonna need a map

This past Sunday I activated my Delorme InReach SE Satellite Communicator. I am now connected to the Iridium Satellite Network with 100% global coverage.

The SC performs 3 main functions.

1) It locates me anywhere on the Earth within +/- 5 yards. I have chosen to have the signal send a coordinate every 20 minutes which will appear on an internet map that you can access from the map in the right sidebar.  I tested this function last fall on a trip to Beaver Island, MI., and it worked perfectly. Even in the deepest swamp, the signal made it through every time and filled the map with blue dots along my path.

2) It allows me to send 160 character messages to a cell phone, Facebook, Twitter or email. To make this function more user-friendly, the SC can be paired with a smartphone through bluetooth. During my expedition of Boone Trace I will be sending all my posts to my wife, Kimberly, who will be distributing them to my cyber hikers on the aforementioned outlets. This function will only be necessary in places where a cell signal is not available, which is only the deep wilderness.

3) The last function is the pièce de résistance. It has a dedicated SOS button which, when pressed, will contact a 24/7 rescue monitoring center. It is a global network with resources to extract me from the deepest jungle, storm-tossed sea or Kentucky roadside ditch if I fall into trouble. With the 2-way messaging, a rescue responder can communicate with me until I’m reached.

An additional plus to this mighty device is that when it is paired with my smartphone, and the proper topo maps are loaded, it can serve as a GPS navigation tool. No chance on me getting lost for long.

So let’s look at the map you cyber hikers will be using to follow.

This first map is what you will see when you first access the map from my website.  The red arrow shows where you can change the type of map to view from topographical, to satellite (aerial), or road map. The blue arrow is the zoom in/out slider

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At 9 a.m. on March 10th, you will find a string of blue dots in the Kingsport, TN, area.  That will be your’s truly heading out. Click on any one of those dots and a window of information will pop up. If you are so inclined to know the latitude and longitude, time, direction of travel, feet above sea level and other nerdy trip tidbits, then maybe you have the same mental problems I do.

You may find a couple of icons in the info panes that indicate you can send me a message or “ping” my location. DON’T DO IT!  Those are extra services I’m not paying for. After all, my website is LOSTinthewander not FOUNDinthewander.

This second pic is an actual shot (in aerial mode) from the map created on my Beaver Island trek. If you’ll notice the blue dots have a line drawn between them. This line seems to indicate that Austin, my son, and I cut through the vegetation and skipped the bend in the road. Not so. The SC was set to “mark” every 10 minutes and that is how long it took us to walk that curve.

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On my Boone Trace Expedition you will need to interpret the dots to understand where I walked. I plan to wade some rivers and only use the bridges over the nasty flows. A dot may appear on both sides of the bridge but it could be that I left the road, got a foot soaking, and re-entered the road in the 20 minutes  between markings. Likewise, a line connecting 2 dots that bisects a building means I walked around the building not over it, unless I’m wearing my cape, which I did pack just in case.